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Floradise

A lifestyle blog by Marette Flora

Phoenix Hike: White Tank Mountains

When you have time in Phoenix, you’d be crazy to not spend some of it hiking. One beautiful area to consider visiting is the White Tank Mountains Regional Park. It’s about a 35-minute drive from central Phoenix in Waddell, but it’s worth the trek. It’s an expansive park with opportunities for horseback riding, hiking, picnics, mountain biking and exploring.

Last time I visited the park was when I lived in Phoenix. Graham and I had hiked the Waterfall Trail after a rainfall, one of the few times you’ll actually see water flowing. This time we chose the 1.3-mile Black Rock Trail, which connects with the Waterfall Trail. You can do either the short or long loop, and walked the long option. You’ll be surrounded by barrel cacti, saguaros, and more desert flora. The hike isn’t too difficult, so anyone can do it. The park is also large enough that even though you share the trails with families, baby boomers, mountain bikers and more, you don’t feel too crowded, as you do on other popular mountains. You could spend the entire day at the park and feel entertained, refreshed and energized, which makes the visit well worth the $6 per car entrance fee.

Of course, there are numerous options for trail hikes. You can hike 8 miles or half a mile; it’s up to you and your desired level of exercise. Some trails also have markers that show archaeological artifacts or areas, which you should admire but never touch. (Don’t deface or take them home, either!) Just enjoy being outdoors in gorgeous weather (assuming you are visiting in the winter).

Be on the lookout for wildlife, rock stacks and desert flora as well. You will see many varieties of cacti, including the barrel cactus. whose curved needles Native Americans used as fish hooks. (I learned that neat fact on a park sign.)

Learn a lesson from the towering saguaros at White Tank Mountain Regional Park. Stand tall and shine!

Have you visited White Tank Mountain Regional Park or Phoenix in general? 

Related post:

Aug. 25: National Park Service’s Birthday

Update: The National Park Service is turning 100! The fee-free day continues this year. See more on the website!


The National Park Service is turning 97.  Admission and day-use fees at national parks are waived on Sunday, Aug. 25, so it might be a good time to plan a day trip. I visited Grand Canyon National Park on a fee-free day in September and saved $25.

Looking for a national park in Arizona? 


Note: The Hohokam Pima National Monument is not open to the public.

Of course, there are also national parks and monuments that never charge an entrance fee.
Other fee-free days are planned in 2013. They are:
  • Sept. 28 for National Public Lands Day, which I took advantage of in 2012.
  • Nov. 9-11 for Veterans Day weekend.
There is a disclaimer on the website that not all fees may be waived. It’s best to call the park ahead of time to ask.

It says:

*Fee waiver includes: entrance fees, commercial tour fees, and transportation entrance fees. Other fees such as reservation, camping, tours, concession and fees collected by third parties are not included unless stated otherwise.

If you visit national parks often, consider purchasing an annual pass ($80), which gets to in to more than 2,000 national recreation areas. There are also senior, military, volunteer and access passes.

Camping at Schnebly Hill

With the Perseid meteor shower set to illuminate the sky, Graham and I headed north to get away from city lights and hopefully see the show.

We chose the campgrounds along Schnebly Hill Road, accessible via the I-17.

Our first destination was Schnebly Hill Vista, which overlooks the Sedona area. You get there by driving down Schnebly Hill Road past the campgrounds. Along the bumpy drive you pass Foxboro Lake Dam to the right; on the left is a sea of yellow wildflowers. All this beauty is complemented nicely by 72-degree weather.

 

The Vista doesn’t disappoint. How did I not know about this place?!

 

 

If you keep following the dirt road you can get to Sedona. In fact, most of the vehicles we saw on the road were Jeep tours from there.

Graham is picky about campsites — we have to be as far away from other people as possible — so we were excited about this spot. (And we had it to ourselves until about 8 or 9 p.m., when two trucks drove up and people set up camp near us. There should be a rule that if the campers next to you can hear your conversation, you are too close. Move away.)

 

We took our pups on a hike along the rough road adjoining our campsite. We came across another field of wildflowers that the dogs thoroughly enjoyed. There was also an animal watering hole, which made us nervous about hunters. Taylor and Capone couldn’t resist jumping in. We could hear sporadic gunfire nearby, so we kept the dogs as close to us as possible. Taylor especially loves to wander off and explore, so it’s difficult to rein the pups in. I’d feel more comfortable next time if we can get them orange vests.

Later that day

Somewhere along a bumpy trail near the Vista we found a nice viewing area to admire the afternoon’s changing colors. We went back to the Vista for a quick snack and then returned to our viewing spot for sunset. Sadly the clouds had mostly moved on by sunset; they would have created a more colorful sunset, but the one we watched was quite lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Under the stars

That night we caught a glimpse of maybe 5-6 shooting stars as we sat around the campfire. A thunderstorm to the east also lit up that part of the sky. I was thrilled to have to put on a sweatshirt to keep warm!

 

Good morning!

The perfect night was followed by a perfect morning of yoga and homemade doughnuts with fruit.

I forgot my yoga mat, so I had to make do with what we had. There’s nothing like outdoor yoga.

 

Homemade doughnuts, strawberries, blueberries and powdered sugar, courtesy of Graham. I added honey, too.

 

Hope your weekend was just as adventurous, scenic, romantic and delicious.

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Waterfall at White Tank Mountain Regional Park

The recent rains convinced Graham that the waterfall at White Tank Mountain Regional Park must be flowing. I have heard that it’s usually dry, so I’ve only ever made the trip to the West Valley park to mountain bike. We hopped in the car and ventured west, all the way to the Cotton Lane exit on the Interstate 10. From there we made some wrong turns but ended up driving north on Citrus Road and turning west on Olive Avenue, which takes you all the way to the park entrance.


On this Sunday we had to pay the park fee of $6 per car in the visitor center and library building. In there we picked up some desert-plant and salsa-vegetable seeds ($5.50) to plant at home. Then we headed to the Waterfall trailhead to start the 1-mile hike.

A sign indicates the types of flora you’ll see on the hike.

The park is home to petroglyphs left behind by the Hohokam people, who apparently abandoned the area in A.D. 1100. The largest concentration of rock art in the park is located along the waterfall trail, according to the park website.

Graham was right, the water was flowing. Hikers making the return trip from the waterfall warned us that we were going to get our shoes wet. It would have been smart to wear water shoes, but we made do with our hiking shoes.

Farther along the trail there are more petroglyphs to admire. A sign explains what the designs are believed to mean.

Water was flowing over the steps near the waterfall. The dark water made it difficult to navigate through because of uneven rocks hidden underneath.

At last, we made it to the waterfall. The small water pool came up to my thighs. It was easier to hold onto the rock wall as I walked over to the mini waterfall for a photo.

On the hike back we stopped to soak in the view of the Valley.

As the end of our hike, we noticed a lizard basking in the sun. Our little friend noticed us immediately, only allowing a few photos before disappearing amid the rocks.

The view west from the trailhead parking lot.

Our spontaneous adventure paid off, with plenty of desert discoveries.

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Havasu Falls Camping: Lessons From My Third Trip to the Waterfalls

Even on my third trip to Havasupai waterfalls I learned so much. It’s always a new experience.

The main difference between this trip and previous visits is that this time our reservation was on a weekend and for a party of six. Team Doza was Graham, Kent, Cody, Jenn, Chris and yours truly. Instead of waking up early to drive to the trailhead on the day of the reservation, we broke up the trip; we booked a hotel room in Williams for Thursday night and then woke up at 4 a.m. Friday to drive the rest of the way. I am not sure that this helped us depart on our hike any earlier or avoid more of the intense sun, but it was easier on the driver. Two of the campers drove up late Thursday and slept in their cars for a few hours.

 

Driving through Seligman.

 

Turn right onto Indian Road 18.

 

From Seligman we followed Interstate 40 to Seligman and then took Route 66 to Indian Road 18. The drive on IR 18 is about 60 miles at 50 mph. Be on the lookout for cattle in the road; a startled calf ran across the road on our way to the hilltop. The cattle stayed so close to the road that we started honking as we approached to scare them away from the pavement. Cattle guards add bumpiness to the ride. The road starts to get rough in some spots. One such area is near Mile Marker 22, but the road smooths out again around Mile 44. At Mile 57 the speed limit slows to 25 mph as the road curves and you approach the trailhead.

 

 

The cattle get really close to the road.

When we arrived at Hualapai Hilltop, we were shocked at the number of cars parked in the lot and along the street. We parked so far from the trailhead that the walk there felt like a hike in itself. Beforehand Graham cooked our usual breakfast of an egg, veggie and potato skillet. We finally took off  around 8 a.m.

Immediately the number of people on the trail became noticeable. Even if we wanted to hike faster in the beginning part of the trail, which has lots of switchbacks, we couldn’t, as we were stuck behind other groups and often had to yield to horses. At one point, the rope holding one horse became stuck on another horse’s saddle, and the horse started to panic. For a second I thought I might get kicked, and the horse stepped so close to the edge that it almost fell over, but luckily the horse wrangler was able to free the horse. A few feet away, I noticed some drops of blood on the trail. We trekked on and finally reached the bottom of the switchbacks to begin the mostly unshaded part of the hike and separate ourselves from other groups.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Horses kick up lots of dust and dirt.

 

 

“Just keep swimmin’, just keep swimmin’ …”

The hike is long, but it’s also beautiful, so you might as well stop to look around and snap as many photos as possible. The burden on your shoulders and back starts to wear on you near the village. The terrain becomes sandy; like walking on a beach, with a heavy pack, in 100 degree weather, minus the cool ocean breeze. We stopped to grab cold drinks at the village stores and check in.

Our fees worked out to $81.40 per person for two nights. One of the office workers then dropped on the news on us: We would be sharing the campgrounds with a group of 150 people and another group of about 50. While we figured weekends would be busier, I didn’t expect that high of a number of campers at once. We soldiered on to finish the last 2 miles, stopping for photos of Upper Navajo, Little Navajo and Havasu Falls.

 

 

The first view of Havasu Falls is a sight for sore eyes. It comes just after a punishing hill, too. There’s even a little rainbow.

 

 

 

It would be nice to set up a hammock right above the water.

We had no expectation of seclusion given the number of campers in the canyon, which is fine. Our campsite consisted of two hammocks and a two-person tent and it was accessible by crossing the creek. I enjoyed a blissful bit of time lounging in our hammock, resting my sore legs. I could have stayed there all weekend.

View from the hammock.

Our first stop after setting up camp was Havasu Falls. On my previous two trips I’ve never seen people jump from the sides of Havasu, but this time many people summoned the courage. It looked like a thrilling 30 to 40-foot drop. It’s also amusing to see people who hiked alongside us at the waterfalls. They walk with stiff legs and yet have huge smiles on their faces.

 

I was content to just sit in the cool water.

 

The next day we ventured on to Mooney, which was just as impressive as before, though it took some time to get down the cliff with the crowds. There are now rangers — one at the top and one near the bottom — who help direct traffic through the cliff tunnels and down the ladders. One of them noted that the number of newbies was slowing things down. He also said they began to direct traffic after people started falling left and right. The sign that says “Descend at your own risk” is not an exaggeration.

 

 

Havasu Falls Camping

At the bottom, handstands seemed to be the popular pose that day. I stuck with a safer yoga tree pose.
To the side of the waterfall there is a small drop just several feet high, and we discovered it have a little cavelike area underneath where people can sit. Some people talked about continuing on to Beaver Falls, though sadly we didn’t make it. (I just might need to make one more trip next year to finally make it there. Maybe we can helicopter both in and out so we can save our energy for the hike to Beaver. Or maybe we would stay longer to give our bodies time to recover.)

Coming out from underneath the mini waterfall.

 

Follow the water to get to Beaver Falls.

Canyon memories

A highlight of the trip was dinner with my campmates on Saturday night. We combined our foods to make a feast: pancakes; cheesy hashbrowns; fiesta black beans with red peppers and onions; a combo of spaghetti noodles, peas, carrots and Parmesan cheese (some of us also added tuna); and trail mix. Nearby campers had rave lights set up to illuminate the adjacent canyon wall and decked themselves out in glowsticks. We turned off our lanterns to gaze at the stars and chat, and even came up with our own inside jokes.

 

Another highlight was buying the last frybread sold by a man at the campgrounds earlier that day. The best $5 I could have spent last weekend! I poured a generous amount of honey, powdered sugar and cinnamon on it and gobbled it up. Yum!

A scary yet funny (in retrospect) moment occurred around 2 a.m. Sunday when my friend woke up screaming that he was stung by a scorpion. It turned out to be a nonpoisonous, small yellow scorpion and nothing to worry about, despite the pain of the sting. My two pals had opened the bottom zipper to let cool air in, allowing the little critter in. (Note to self: Don’t do that!)

The big group

I mentioned earlier in this post a group of 150 people with reservations for the same weekend. We met a man on the last day who apparently plans camping trips every year. He said it began with 12 people and grew to the 150 that went in 2013. The campers each paid either $120 or $150 for all of their meals, T-shirts and bandanas … and I’m not sure what else. They had hired more than 40 mules to bring down their stuff. This also meant we had competition for getting a helicopter ride out.

An 8-hour wait vs. 5-hour walk

The plan for Sunday was to wake up as early as possible to hike the 2 miles back to Supai and check in for a helicopter flight. We were told check-in was from 10 a.m. to noon, but we woke up around 6:30 a.m. and hiked out around 7. We stopped for one last view of Havasu Falls on the way. The weather was significantly cooler and we were so grateful to be hiking out in the shade rather than the scorching sun. The morning light is gorgeous, and the hike was so much easier than the way in. I remember saying, “This is a leisurely stroll.” Except with a backpack.

One last stop at Havasu Falls.

 

Much to our surprise, there were about 100 people in line already waiting to check in. Well, not exactly. Some people were saving spots for others in their group. This caused heated exchanges among those who thought this was unfair.

Flights didn’t start until after 10 a.m. My group had Nos. 123, 124, 126 (me), 127, 145 and 146. This didn’t include the 38 or so locals who flew out before the tourist flights even started. We spent the next 8 or 9 hours sometimes lying on a tarp in the shade, other times sitting at a table at the cafe patio. We snacked, tried to stay hydrated and talked. At one point we decided to start timing the flights in and out. The shortest we timed was about 9 minutes including loading time at top and bottom of the canyon. This somewhat helped us preserve our sanity and keep the hope alive of being flown out. The wait would have been more bearable had the cafe and store been open, but planned electrical work shut down the cafe around 11 a.m. Luckily I went in beforehand and ordered a filling breakfast burrito (with homemade tortilla and salsa!). The store closed shortly afterward when its generator shut down. This meant no more ice-cold drinks for the rest of the wait unless you walked to the other store at the edge of the village. Under the intense heat that walk seemed three times longer. The cafe’s closure also meant that all the campers waiting for a flight had to share one bathroom (that I know of), the one at the tourist office.

 

 

Yes, we could have decided to hike out once we saw the line of people waiting at 8 a.m. But by then the sun was already almost over the canyon walls and the temperature was rising quickly. In order to hike out we would have needed to wake up around 3 or 4 a.m. Many in group had blisters on their feet and sore muscles. It was thus definitely worth it to wait that long to not have to hike out.

“Havasupai, you win again!”

To sum up, here’s what I learned.
  • Don’t camp on a weekend if you prefer seclusion. It wouldn’t hurt to call the office to ask if you’re sharing the grounds with big groups.
  • If you do want to helicopter out on a Sunday, wake up early, at 3 or 4 a.m. if it’s crowded, and wait at the check-in site. That’s also a good time to start hiking back if that’s your preference.
  • Bring cash. Although the camping office and helicopter service take credit cards, it was beneficial having cash to pay for snacks sold by locals.
  • Don’t bother bringing a sweatshirt in May, June or August. Those are the three months I’ve gone, and it’s been warm every time. Sweatshirts and sleeping bags just add more weight.
  • Have more fun with it. Bring rafts, glowsticks, lights, whatever.

Things I wish I had brought

It never fails that I overlook things.

  • Inflatable raft. Why didn’t I think to bring one and blow it up there?
  • Spray bottle with fan. I saw someone use one of these while waiting for the helicopter in the heat and I became insanely jealous.
  • Crystal Light or Mio. I use these all the time and yet didn’t think to bring them. After drinking lukewarm water for 2 days I craved some flavor.

Previous posts on Havasupai

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Wildflowers in Sedona

As if the red-rock formations weren’t scenic enough, our campsite in Sedona last weekend was surrounded by bright-hued wildflowers.

We camped along Forest Road 525 again, which we accessed from Arizona 89A. Few vehicles passed our site, mostly Pink Jeep Tours. You can camp on the left side of the road; most people didn’t travel far on 525 to choose a campsite. But if you continue on 525 toward the Honanki Ruins, there’s a much more secluded, gorgeous spot complete with two firepits and amazing views.

I spotted wildflowers in red, yellow, white, orange, pink and purple.

Follow these signs to a fantastic camping spot.

At this sign we went to the right of the fork.

At this sign we went left. 

After sunset, we could hear an owl nearby (but luckily no coyotes this time). It was as if the owl was speaking to us.

The only other animals we encountered were grazing cows on the right side of Forest Road 525.

We spotted a cave and decided to try to climb into it. It appears others have done the same, as there were signs of fire inside.

A video captures the view from outside the small cave.

I can’t think of a more perfect setting for weekend fun.

Red River Gorge, Kentucky

I was lucky enough to be invited to a wedding in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky last weekend. I knew it would be scenic but what I experienced surpassed every expectation.

The Gorge was about a two-hour drive from Louisville. Luckily our rental,  a Prius hybrid, boasted almost 50 miles to the gallon. We pushed buttons and more buttons trying to figure out how to turn it on, and after a few minutes of fumbling and consulting with the guidebook we finally figured it out. (The car is so quiet that I had trouble discerning when it was actually on at times.) The high-tech screen was impressive though.

From the road I admired the famed rolling hills of Kentucky, the farms, grazing horses and cows, tall trees and signs for historic landmarks. I was dying to visit the distilleries, but alas, there was no time.

Our first stop was Nada Tunnel, which used to be a railroad tunnel. Now, after stopping to check for oncoming cars, cars can drive through it, one direction at a time. It’s a tight fit, claustrophobic even. The recent rain created a mini waterfall over the entrance.

We then explored Sky Bridge and Sky Bridge overlook, the wedding location. The hike was little muddy at times but a welcome change from the dry heat in the Valley. Everywhere I looked I saw green, though natives told me this was just the beginning.

Our cabin, rented via 5 Star Cabin Rentals, was accessible via a bridge and stairs — a short hike that made transporting our luggage quite the workout. Its most impressive feature was a waterfall behind the our home in the woods. And we had it all to ourselves!

Serenity Falls.

The day of the wedding began with a pancakes and a hike to Natural Bridge. The trail was short — just over .5 miles to the bridge — and easy. The scenery was green and luscious. Temperatures in the 60s and sunny skies completed the perfect day.

While absorbing the beauty of the landscape from atop Natural Bridge, a wedding party arrived. It was put on by My Tiny Wedding, which organizes small nuptials in the area.

The hike continued toward an overlook. We passed the ski lift, which the bride and groom had used to get up to Natural Bridge. We soldiered on despite the abundance of mud on the trail. And we were rewarded with even more stunning views.

We also visited Lovers’ Leap and saw Devil’s Gulch.

Our final hiking destination that weekend was Indian Staircase, which I was told was an unofficial trail. And I can see why.

Just a little steep.
View from the top.

There were other finds on the hike. One was Frog Rock, which resembles its namesake.

I don’t recommend this. At all.
The end of the hike resembled a scene from Lord of the Rings. Wildflowers and moss accented the landscape, a parting gift from nature. Can’t wait to see you again, Kentucky!

Wildflowers at Piestewa Peak

I’m on a mission to combat the effects of working at a sedentary job. It isn’t always easy, but I try to get at least four days of exercise a week. This week, I decided to break up my fitness routine of running and yoga with a hike at Piestewa Peak in Phoenix.

View from the Hopi parking lot.

Many other Arizonans and tourists had the same idea on that weekday morning. I usually find a parking space near the summit trail, but this time I had to park all the way in the Hopi lot, so I got a little more exercise than I planned for. The trek up Piestewa seemed shorter than I remember, or maybe I am a faster hiker now. The 1.2-mile ascent and descent took me about an hour and 15 minutes, with time to stop for photos along the way and pose for (and take) photographs at the summit.

Besides the cool, fresh air, wildflowers and workout, I love the people-watching on the mountain. There were the snowbirds with expensive cameras hanging from their necks. There were the fitness hikers who jog past you at the first opportunity. There are the people who can’t seem to get off their cellphones, discussing meetings and numbers. There are the families whose jolly kids don’t even seem to be breaking a sweat. There are the couples who seem to be absorbed in a deep, fascinating conversation. I love peeking into these lives.

The scenery is gorgeous right now. I spotted orange globe mallows and other yellow, pink and purple  wildflowers (note to self: learn more wildflower names), and many plants had buds that are yet to bloom. The beauty of hiking Piestewa is now not in capturing the city views at the summit but also the colorful adornments on the way up.

Grand Canyon weekend trip

It was a grand weekend. We took advantage of fee-free entry into national parks Sept. 29 to visit the Grand Canyon. I loved the change in temperatures and scenery on the drive there.

Somewhere on Highway 180

Many volunteers devoted their time that day to help with projects such as picking up trash. I admired them and hope to join in a future project.

These canyoneers picked up litter blown, or thrown, into the canyon. Apparently there is a big problem with people throwing coins, which animals may ingest.

The views were incredible as always.

It was a nice day for hiking the Grandview trail. I would like to hike all the way down to the river on a future trip.

A plein air painter tries to capture the canyon’s beauty.
Desert View is my favorite lookout because you have such good views of the Colorado River.

Inside the historic lookout tower.
On the way back to Grandview to watch the sunset, stop by the Tusayan ruins and museum.

The best part? Sunset.

Next time, I want to bring my mountain bike to ride around instead of driving or taking the shuttle.

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